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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.